Equipment
You’ve made the decision; got the craft and paddle, have a training plan and now you’re ready. Not quite – you’ll need a little more than that to do the Classic.
Compulsory Equipment
Personal Flotation Device (PFD)
All paddlers MUST wear Australian Standard PFD. “DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT”.
Expect to capsize and swim occasionally when paddling a canoe, kayak or outrigger - its part of the fun! But when you hit the water unexpectedly, even strong swimmers need a personal flotation device (PFD), commonly called “life jacket”. It allows you to concentrate on doing what’s needed to increase your safety and improve your chances of rescue. Over 50 % of all drownings involving canoes, kayaks and other small craft would never have happened if the victim had been wearing a PFD!
Type 1 PFDs are safe and will turn an unconscious person face up, but they are generally too bulky for paddlers.
Type 2 PFDs are designed to be worn at all times in sheltered water and have high visibility fabrics. They come in a wide variety of designs, colours and prices and are rated for a range of body sizes from 10kg, up to 60kg and over.
Type 3 PFDs are designed for the same conditions as type 2, but they can use different colours and types of materials for construction and are not as visible. Water skier’s vests fit into this category.
Because paddlers wear their life jackets all day, make sure yours has a secure yet comfortable fit. When wearing the right PFD you’ll hardly know you have it on. Although all approved PFDs meet certain strength and buoyancy standards, they’re not all the same. Spend some extra money for a higher quality model. It will have softer foam, a more comfortable cut, and improved adjustability. Make sure your jacket adjusts easily and fits snugly over clothing worn for different weather conditions. Few universal sized PFDs fit as well as models designed for a size (small, medium, large and extra large). Very extra large men will need to find an XXL version. Check the length to be sure that your PFD will not push on your kayak deck and push the PFD up around your ears. Sit on the floor of the shop when you are trying on the PFD and pretend you are paddling to ensure it fits snugly and allows movement.
Most importantly, although many PFDs are sold in sizes such as small, medium large etc. the correct size is always dependent on the wearer’s weight. Chest size and fit is very important, but so is the correct size by weight. Always check the PFDs label for size / weight limits and specifications.
As PFDs get old, the buoyancy inside the jacket shrinks and loses its ability to keep you afloat. It is very difficult to tell if the buoyancy inside the PFD is OK. Ways that help you know the jacket is no longer fit for purpose is if when swimming with it on it won’t support you and you can easily dive, the foam shrinks away from pockets in the PFD and the fabric starts to look thread bare. Your life is worth more than the cost of a new PFD, so get the right safety equipment.
PFD must have the Australian Standards label of complance.
Not wearing a PFD in a boat is like not wearing a seatbelt in a car; when you need it, it’s too late!
Your PFD will be given a buoyancy check before it is permitted to be used in the Hawkesbury Classic.
The Hawkesbury Canoe Classic will not accept inflatable PFD.
Emergency blanket
As hypothermia is a very real concern, an emergency blanket is a mandatory requirement. They are light, small and will keep the wind off a wet person so the chill factor is reduced. Store it in the boat and put it on if you need to stop for a long period.
The Emergy blanket must be fixed to your PFD.
Whistles
Each paddler must have attached to their life jacket a waterproof light. This light must be long-life, either LED bulbs with reflector, or incandescent powered by at least one AA size battery. Each craft must have a waterproof torch suitable for reading maps and illuminating the shoreline. This torch must be attached to the craft so that it can be retrieved by the paddler whilst seated in his or her normal position. The torch must be long-life, either LED bulbs with reflector, or incandescent powered by at least two D-size batteries. Don’t waste your money on a cheap torch. If it’s not waterproof it won’t last the night and the salt water will get in and cause corrosion. Both torches are invaluable in any kind of emergency for attracting attention if required. Dolphin torches and large “Maglites” are acceptable torches. Torches that are not powered by batteries will not be accepted.
Torches
Each paddler must have attached to their life jacket a waterproof light. This light must be powered by at least one AA size battery, or LED globe with a reflector. Each craft must have a waterproof torch suitable for reading maps and illuminating the shoreline. This torch must be attached to the craft so that it can be retrieved by the paddler whilst seated in his or her normal position. The torch must be long-life, either LED bulbs with reflector, or incandescent powered by at least two D-size batteries. Don’t waste your money on a cheap torch. If it’s not waterproof it won’t last the night and the salt water will get in and cause corrosion. Both torches are invaluable in any kind of emergency for attracting attention if required. Dolphin torches and large “Maglites” are acceptable torches. Torches that are not powered by batteries will not be accepted.
Maps
Entrants are sent large scale maps covering the whole course. There are four maps covering the legs between each major checkpoint. Add Estimated Times of Arrival (ETA’s) for each checkpoint then cover the maps in plastic or get them laminated.
Tape the maps to the deck of your craft just in front of the cockpit. It may be necessary to layer the maps. If so, arrange with your landcrew to remove the top map when that section of river is completed.
Please do not throw your discarded maps into the river.
Various methods are used to read maps at night. In perfect weather conditions, moonlight provides adequate lighting. If overcast it will be necessary to use torchlight. A simple, hands-free solution is a torch mounted on a headband as available from camping stores. The best solution is to make a map board which can be fitted over the front of the cockpit, a bit closer to the map reader. Onto it mount shielded lights operated by a large switch. Red LED’s provide ample illumination with minimum disruption to night vision.
Compass
Compasses can be bought from car accessory shops, but these can be unreliable. If you have a bushwalking compass remember it will rock in a canoe or kayak and possibly stick, so check out the boating shops. It may be worth your while to pay that little extra to get a marine compass and not go around in circles if a fog rolls in. Maps are supplied which have compass bearings for each reach of the river. Practice using the compass during your training.
Recommended Equipment and Clothing
If you use a spray deck to cover you cockpit you may only need a pair of cycling shorts or track suit pants once it gets cold.
Up top is different. Because of the exertion, you are going to sweat and because your bum is below the water-line you’re going to get wet from spray, so a thermal that breathes is best. It will draw the water/sweat away from your skin thus keeping you warmer. Thermals are very popular with paddlers.
Wet wool provides more protection than wet cotton and you are going to get wet, wet, wet. A wet weather jacket that breathes the same as the thermals is also a good idea. It will keep you drier (note we did not say dry).
Weather conditions are unpredictable. It will probably be warm to hot at the beginning ranging to cold during the night. The best idea is “layering”. Begin with a T-shirt (preferably thermal) and shorts at the start when it is warm/hot. After sunset the temperature will drop and you will be wet. You should have another shirt in your boat. So stop, put that extra layer over the top of your T-shirt and then continue until the next checkpoint. Change completely if you have the time, or just add an extra layer when you need to.
Use only clothing tried out in training, as a minor irritation at the start will be a major aggravation after a while.
Land organisation
Make several bundles of spare clothing, pack them in bags marked with the checkpoint letters you intend to stop at and give them to your landcrew. You will perk up considerably when you get some dry, warm clothing on. About 1/3 of paddlers stop more than once for a change of clothes, while 2/3 plan at least one change of clothes.
Footwear
The river has snags, bits of wire, sharp rocks and broken glass, all looking for unprotected feet, so wear something. Without protection, your feet may chafe on the inside of your boat or from the rudder after a few kilometres. Soft soled neoprene wet-boots are the best. Make sure if you wear an old pair of joggers that they’re comfortable and can fit under the deck.
Hands
If you are worried about blisters on your hands you could try to pre-toughen during the weeks before the Classic with a mixture of metho with a dash of olive oil. It might be better to wear gloves. You can buy good fingerless gloves at canoe and marine shops. However, even gloves will chafe, especially where the paddle shaft rotates on your hand, so break them in well before the event. Training without gloves will toughen up your hands so you may not need anything.
Head Gear
You can lose an enormous amount of heat through your head. A hat for the day and a beanie for the night are a good start for staying warm.
Glasses
If you wear prescription glasses or have expensive sunglasses, secure them on your head with a strap.
Identification
Landcrews find it hard to identify boats in the dark, so try to put some distinctive marking on your canoe. But don’t use lights that will annoy other paddlers or affect their or your night vision.
